The Eighth Wonder of the World on Four Wheels
The Karakoram Highway, stretching 1,300 kilometers from Islamabad to the Khunjerab Pass at the Chinese border, is widely regarded as one of the most spectacular road journeys on Earth. Built jointly by Pakistan and China between 1959 and 1979 at the cost of over 800 lives lost to landslides, avalanches, and falls, the KKH traces a path through the Karakoram, Himalayan, and Hindu Kush mountain ranges, climbing from the plains of Punjab to 4,693 meters above sea level.
Driving the KKH is not a casual road trip. It demands preparation, respect for the terrain, and an acceptance that schedules may change at the mountain’s discretion. But for those who make the journey, the rewards are unparalleled: views of three of the world’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, encounters with ancient cultures, and landscapes that shift from subtropical valleys to high-altitude desert within a single day’s drive. For winter travel tips in the region, see our Skardu winter travel guide.
Islamabad to Abbottabad: The Gentle Beginning
The journey begins on the modern Hazara Motorway, which connects Islamabad to Havelian in approximately 90 minutes. From Havelian, the historical starting point of the KKH, the road winds through the cantonment town of Abbottabad, elevation 1,260 meters, named after British officer James Abbott. The total driving time from Islamabad to Abbottabad is roughly two hours.
Abbottabad serves as the last major city before the mountains dominate the landscape. Stock up on essentials here: bottled water, snacks, medications, and any spare vehicle parts. The city’s Ilyasi Mosque, Shimla Hill viewpoint, and the bustling Mansehra Road bazaar are worth a brief stop if time permits. Several fuel stations along the route offer premium petrol, which is recommended for vehicles that will be climbing continuously for the next several hundred kilometers.
From Abbottabad, the KKH descends toward Mansehra and then follows the ancient Silk Road route northward. The landscape transitions from pine-covered hills to the increasingly dramatic Indus River gorge.
Besham to Chilas: Where the Mountains Get Serious
Besham, reached approximately four hours from Islamabad, is the traditional lunch stop on the KKH. The small town sits at the confluence of the Indus River and the Besham Valley, at an elevation of approximately 650 meters. Several roadside restaurants serve excellent daal, chapati, and karahi chicken at remarkably affordable prices, typically PKR 500 to PKR 800 for a full meal. The Besham Continental Hotel offers basic but clean rooms for travelers who want to break the journey early.
The stretch from Besham northward through the Kohistan district is the most challenging section of the entire KKH. The road narrows significantly, with frequent single-lane sections carved into sheer cliff faces above the Indus River. Landslides are common, particularly during and after rainfall, and delays of several hours are not unusual. This section demands full driver concentration, as oncoming trucks and buses often occupy more than their share of the narrow road.
Chilas, reached approximately eight hours from Islamabad, sits at 1,250 meters in the rain shadow of the Karakoram. The town is the gateway to the Fairy Meadows turnoff, where a bone-rattling jeep track leads to one of the most famous viewpoints of Nanga Parbat, the 8,126-meter “Killer Mountain.” Chilas offers several hotels ranging from PKR 2,000 to PKR 5,000 per night, and many travelers choose to overnight here, particularly if they started driving from Islamabad in the afternoon.
How Dangerous Is the Kohistan Section?
The Kohistan section between Besham and Chilas deserves specific attention because it is the portion of the KKH that generates the most safety concerns among travelers. The road runs through deep gorges where the Indus River has carved passages through solid rock. In several places, the road surface is barely five meters wide with no guardrails and drops of hundreds of meters to the river below.
Landslide zones are marked with warning signs, but new slides can occur at any point, particularly between July and September during the monsoon season. The Pakistan National Highway Authority maintains clearing crews along the route, and most blockages are cleared within 6 to 24 hours. However, major slides can close the road for days. Checking road conditions through local contacts or the Karakoram Club’s social media channels before departure is strongly recommended.
Despite these challenges, thousands of vehicles traverse this section daily, including heavy goods trucks connecting Pakistan to China. Driving during daylight hours, maintaining moderate speeds of 30 to 40 kilometers per hour through the most exposed sections, and staying alert for oncoming traffic around blind corners are the essential safety practices.
Chilas to Gilgit: The Landscape Transforms
The four-hour drive from Chilas to Gilgit reveals one of the most dramatic landscape transitions on the KKH. The barren, sun-scorched terrain around Chilas gradually gives way to the irrigated green oases of the Gilgit Valley. The Raikot Bridge, approximately one hour north of Chilas, is the turnoff point for Fairy Meadows and offers a direct view of Nanga Parbat’s massive south face, rising over 4,500 meters vertically from the Indus Valley floor, the largest mountain face on Earth.
Gilgit, elevation 1,500 meters, is the administrative capital of Gilgit-Baltistan and the primary logistics hub for KKH travelers. The city offers the most reliable accommodation, fuel, vehicle repair services, and banking facilities between Abbottabad and the Chinese border. The Serena Hotel Gilgit provides comfortable rooms starting at PKR 15,000, while budget guesthouses along Airport Road offer clean rooms from PKR 3,000.
The Gilgit bazaar is the place to stock up on dried fruits, locally mined gemstones, and warm clothing if you are continuing north to higher elevations. The Kargah Buddha, a seventh-century rock carving of a standing Buddha, is a quick detour that provides fascinating evidence of the region’s pre-Islamic Buddhist heritage.
Gilgit to Karimabad: The Crown Jewel of the Journey
The two-hour drive from Gilgit to Karimabad in Hunza Valley is universally regarded as the most beautiful section of the KKH. The road follows the Hunza River through increasingly spectacular scenery, with 7,000-meter peaks visible in every direction. Rakaposhi, at 7,788 meters, dominates the view to the east, and its snow-covered summit is visible for much of the drive.
Karimabad, the main town of Hunza, sits at approximately 2,400 meters and serves as the cultural and tourism center of the region. The 700-year-old Baltit Fort, restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, towers above the town and offers panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. Eagle’s Nest viewpoint, accessible by a short drive above Karimabad, provides what many consider the single finest mountain panorama in Pakistan, encompassing Rakaposhi, Diran, Ultar Sar, Lady Finger Peak, and Passu Cones in a single sweeping vista.
Attabad Lake, located 15 kilometers north of Karimabad, was formed in January 2010 when a massive landslide blocked the Hunza River, creating a 21-kilometer-long turquoise lake that submerged a section of the KKH. Today, boating on the lake is one of the KKH’s most popular tourist activities, with speedboat rides costing approximately PKR 1,000 per person. The tunnels built through the mountains to bypass the submerged road section are an engineering achievement in their own right.
Passu to Khunjerab Pass: The Roof of the World
Beyond Attabad Lake, the KKH passes through Passu, famous for its distinctive Cathedral-like rock spires known as the Passu Cones or Passu Cathedral. The Passu Suspension Bridge, a narrow cable-and-plank bridge spanning the Hunza River, has become one of the most photographed spots on the entire KKH, attracting both thrill-seekers and photographers.
From Passu, the road continues to Sost, the last Pakistani settlement before the Chinese border. Sost is the location of the Dry Port where customs and immigration formalities are completed for those crossing into China. The town offers basic accommodation and is the last reliable fuel stop.
The final stretch from Sost to the Khunjerab Pass climbs steeply through increasingly barren terrain. At 4,693 meters, Khunjerab is the highest paved international border crossing in the world. The pass is marked by a formal gate and a monument on the Pakistan-China border. The air is noticeably thin, and altitude sickness can affect unprepared travelers. The border is open to tourists from May 1 to November 30, weather permitting.
Essential Practical Information for KKH Drivers
The best months to drive the KKH are May, June, September, and October. July and August bring monsoon rains that increase landslide risk, particularly in the Kohistan section. Winter driving from November through April is possible as far as Gilgit and Hunza but requires chains, winter tires, and significant cold-weather preparation. The Khunjerab Pass is closed during winter.
A 4×4 vehicle is strongly recommended for the journey, particularly a Toyota Land Cruiser, Hilux, or Fortuner, which dominate the region due to parts availability and mechanical familiarity among local workshops. Sedans can complete the journey in summer but are vulnerable to road damage in sections with poor surfaces. Fuel is available at Abbottabad, Besham, Chilas, Gilgit, and Karimabad, but prices increase with altitude. Carrying a 20-liter jerry can as reserve is prudent.
Mobile phone coverage is available in towns but absent for long stretches between them. Zong offers the best coverage along the KKH, followed by Jazz. Download offline maps on Google Maps or Maps.me before departing Islamabad, as data connectivity will be intermittent throughout the journey.
The total cost of a KKH road trip, including fuel, accommodation, food, and activities, typically ranges from PKR 50,000 to PKR 150,000 per person for a round trip of 7 to 10 days, depending on accommodation choices and activities included. This makes it one of the most affordable bucket-list road trips in the world.
Share your thoughts in the comments! Have you driven the Karakoram Highway, or is it on your bucket list?
